Hi guy's, Ive just bought a new 47" mono hull and it didn't come with any set instructions so I was hoping some of you wise old boaters could point me in the right direction?...

How do I attach the stuffing tube to the transom and hull?
How long should the stinger be? I can get a 85mm long one and a 105mm one.
Should the rudder come out further from the transom than the prop?
What would be a starting point for CG and when I'm measuring do I have fuel in the bag?
What would be best? A a square drive prop shaft or one piece flex cable?
How high should I mount the stinger?
And whats the best ways to attach the radio box to the engine rails??
So sorry for sooo many questions but I really need some help to get me started.
I'll try and post some pics of the boat so you can see what I'm working with.

Cheers

PS, whats the best way to repair the damaged gel coat on the corner?

The first thing you should do is check the bottom of the hull for rocker or hook. Put a straight edge along the rear ride surface to check. If it has hook, look to see that it is uniform, side to side. If not, it needs attention before anything else.

That hull appears to have a rounded or flat ride pad at the transom. That will make it a higher lift hull. If you are going to put ANY descent power to it, I STRONGLY urge you to offset your drive 1/4" to 3/8" to starboard. This can help greatly to stop bad handling on light, high lift V hulls. The stuffing tube should be held by a "T" bar up near the engine, and a simple hole drilled through the transom. Depending on what drive you use, the stuffing tube can pass out through the transom, and into/up to, the drive. I would shoot for 5/8" above the bottom of the keel, to the C/L of your prop shaft. You can enlongate the transom hole for up and down adjustment. The 105 drive length will be good, with a 5 1/2" to 6" rudder standoff. You want the front of the rudder blade to be slightly behind the prop, offset 2 1/2" to starboard. Without knowing the power available, I would say a C of G around 28 to 30% with a half load of fuel. It's very easy to increase it, and harder to reduce it.

Thank you very much for the advice Hot Rods. I'm planning on running a modified zenoah 260 in it.
Do you mean, mount the stinger 1/4" off the centre line not just angle it from the transom?
So with the stuffing tube at the transom end you don't epoxy or fibre glass it in place? I've read somewhere of people using a black silicone to seal it?
Any thoughts on the radio box mounting and options for the drive, ie. one piece or prop shaft and flex?

Anyone else with some ideas? I need all the help I can get!

Did you read the 'link' I sent you on building the other similar sized boat?

This is a 'step by step' for a Lazer 45 and will give you a good understanding what you are trying to do - but you need to READ it
You can go to local Real boat store or shop and ask if they have a Gel Coat touch up kit in white to fix damage - most will have kits in stock

Yes, the stinger gets moved laterally 1/4" to 3/8" to the right of the transom C/L ( looking at the transom ). This also allows you to put a very gradual "S" bend in the stuffing tube. Whether you use square drive or round collet, will depend on the design of the stinger you choose. It's really personal choice. You may want to do a lot of reading up on that. Most race set-ups are round collet drive.
The stuffing tube at the transom can be sealed with silicone, or if racing, it can be left to intentionally leak, causing the hull to somewhat "sink" if it should stall. With plenty of floatation, it won't go down, but it won't present so large of a target for other racers to smash into, causing more damage. There are many different ways to secure the box. If it's a wood or glass box, you can glue/glass thin "rails" to both sides, and then pass small bolts through the stringers. Other guys use small rubber bumpers fastened to the stringers. You really need to look at lots of pictures to get ideas. Just keep in mind that you want as few ways for water to enter the box as possible. Also if the servos are inside ( or outside ) the box, they must be very solidly mounted for good control.

A lot of fast V hulls can benefit from the tuned pipe running straight down the port side of the hull on a 90 degree header. It helps to offset the torque roll of aggressive, larger diameter props.

Thanks guys, this is really useful info. I appreciate it heaps.
Here is the stinger I was looking at - 105mm Stinger
And the Rudder - 165mm x 180mm Rudder
And I'll give that set up guide a thorough read tonight after work. If you think of anything else please let me know!

The link to the stinger won't open for me. A stand off that puts the front of the rudder blade back 140 to 150mm., would be about right.

Try this?
shop.rcboatbitz.com.au/index.p...roducts_id=1576
and
shop.rcboatbitz.com.au/index.p...products_id=603

That's the drive I thought you were looking at. Just keep in mind, that roller bearings are hardened, and given time, they can "cut" into the prop shaft.

If that 180mm. refers to the back of the blade, it's probably about right.

That hull will probably do very well with a rectangular shaped right turn fin. It should be mounted as close to the chine line as you can, and at 90 degrees to the V ride surface. It may need trim tabs for straight line stability, but I would try the boat first to see.

It's also VERY IMPORTANT for most high speed V hulls, to use low lifting props. Props that try to lift the transom can upset the turning and straight line running, and drive ya crazy.