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If hydro guys would use standard SS 4-40 rod in a pull setup rather then push like everyone does there would be no bending or use for machined pieces. A lot more simple!! Why over complicate a rudder linkage??

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Why use spring steel? Wh not use a piece of 5/32 304 stainless steel. Spring steel will rust, stainless steel won't
I use 12 gage atainless bicycle spokes for my push rods and I drill and tap the ends 6-32 and use 3/4 inch long set screws..

1/8" stainless rod is as strong as you will ever need and it won't rust and is a bit easier to cut threads in. Once you reduce and cut threads in a piece as hard as music wire if it gets whacked enough to flex the hardened area that is threaded it will just snap. Stainless is not as brittle and if it were whacked hard enough to bend it at the thread it would flex rather than break.
We used to silver braze a 6/32 hardened bolt on the end of 1/8" music wire and found out the threads became weak point unless you thread the bolt in all the way up to the head.

With the stainless with 6/32" threads on the end I usually cut them short so I can thread the threads all the way up in the ball joint and even some of the full diameter of the rod is in the balljoint so there is no weak spot.

Peter,
I see you recommending the pull to go right but I don't see how you are going to do that on many boats. While a good idea it's feasibility for the boats that need it most is usually not going to be very reasonable.
Running a pull system is possible with remote mounted waterproof servo's on some cats and mono's but most prefer their servo' be in the radio box. Left side rudders suck on most everything so that isn't a option for pull system on right turns if the rudder is on the right side on a boat like a hydro or rigger..

It gets a bit more difficult on hydro's and riggers where you need the benefit because the rods tend to be longer. The rudder is usually on the far right so on a rigger if the arm was out to the right the pushrod would be hanging outside the boat.
If it were a hydro the pushrod would be coming through outside the stringer where you can't even get to because the access holes in the deck often aren't as wide as even the rails are. It would be anything but simple. Nearly impossible.

I also recess 1/3 of the ball sticking out of the balljoint into a recess in the rudder steering horn and the servo arm. That way it is fully indexed with the horn and arm and there is very little stress on the 4-40 bolt. It just keeps the ball in the horn but has no stress on the bolt itself and will never bend or fatigue.

1/8" Stainless is close to bullet proof as it gets and still be reasonably sized and work nicely in most waterproof bellows.

Whether it be a right pull or a right push, fighting flex/breakage on long link rods is in my opinion, addressing the symtoms instead of the cause. And a simple solution is to just apply a little independent thought. In this case, one can mount waterproof servos as close as possible to the rudder. Use a super short/stiff rod to pull or push. And yes ... maybe the boat designers could look at designs that would help facilitate changes to simpler rigging. Would it not be nice to replace a servo without disturbing your pipe's O rings, and not having to remove and reseal the taped-on box lid, and not have to worry if those push rod seals are getting worn and maybe leaking? And maybe be able to use a smaller receiver/battery box, and move it wherever it would help the boat? " But that's not how you rig a boat!" "What we do right now works fine .... ".

Everyone will build their boat as they want, and it's usually the same as everyone that came before it. But it doesn't cost us anything to take a few minutes to see if there might be a simpler approach. Just an idea ...

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Right from speed master you can get the right pull assem for the rudder. It is dirt cheap and bolts right up. No drilling of the standard horn at all. You can even keep the servo where it is in the radio box and bend it further right after it comes out of the transom. Pretty simple IMO. Have seen this on a rigger before with the rudder mounted as far right as possible. Takes no more time to assemble from the norm setup.

You are absolutely right Jim, threading the end of a piece of spring steel is not that hard to do.

It's not hard for guys like you and me, but what about the guys who don't have a lathe, What about the guys who have a lathe that won't cut threads or the guy who has a lathe that will cut threads but doesn't know how to do it.

I go to the local lake and watch some of the guys work on their boats and I'll swear, they hardly know which end of the screw driver to hold.