Not that i know anything, but i do not agree. Every cable i have seen break at the weld was because it was not supported by the bushing/bearing whatever used. Cable whip plus the prop loading and unloading takes its toll on that area.. and supporting it greatly reduces the chance of it failing.

Randy,

I always run the stuffing tube all to way through to the back of the strut. Then insert the brass sleeve bearing into the tube at the back of the strut. That's the way the SM is designed to work. The sleeve bushing will be way too loose in the strut alone, it has to ride in the 5/16 stuffing tube. As for length of bushing, that's debatable. I usually make them about the length of the strut itself. This usually covers the weld in the cable. Just the way I've been doing it...

I've noticed lately that most if not all of the SM struts are an extremely tight fit for the K&S 5/16 brass tube. I've had to drill my struts with a 5/16 bit and cutting fluid to get the tubes to fit in there just snug, as they should be. Wish SM would get the upper hand on this issue and correct it.

Thanks for the replys guys - I did fit last night - read this again - went back to hobby shop this morning ... new thick wall tube and went full length

I reemed strut to fit better --- still very snug but closer to my other (older SM) hardware == so I went full length and machined a bushing / silver soldered collar on bushing and am a happy camper (ah boater)

I did loctite it so I used everyone's ideas ... thank you

I made up a clamp/oiler (clamps evenly both sides and nice and snug) and drilled small oiler hole to start with - may use grease but wanted oiler stuff there

added alum tank and oak mounts (4/40 inserts mounted before) added switch and rubber grommets for rods (rubber from Dave P in UK - super quality boots)

Rudder rod has carbon fiber support I'll glass in later today with water line support

Man hope I can do this for Sunday .........

Cheers .... Thanks for all the help guys can't wait to fire this puppy up tonite (I like to wait till neighbors are asleep) ... Just kiddin ...

I'll post a completed one tonite ...... I hope ......

Oversight on my part that Will sheds light on ... Oups !

Question was answered in two parts and I did not think of each as it effects the other.

** I do only place stuffing tube into struts nose 3/8" or so, but DON'T use those tube type bearings THAT REQUIRE a thin wall 5/16" stuffing tube to go ALL THE WAY THREW the strut.
I use Bronze bushings as bearings that press into strut while using the .029 heavy wall 5/16" stuffing tube.

So this while a proper response, it lacks enough information making sense of what I was saying

As for the support of cable ahead of shafts solid section within strut, thats true & IMO the only reason one would need to provide support ahead of the weld JOINT is IF STUFFING TUBE BENDS close to the struts nose and cable is being bent/flexed at or just ahead of the weld joint

Hope this clears up in greater detail what I was attempting to share ... Thanks Will

Need to do some detail but gives you general idea

WOW! That is one mean looking Warpath Rigger!
Great finish! I love the flaming skull with the "MGB Racing". Where did you get/buy that?

Cheers!

Woodie.

Lol Thanks Woodie

I;ll fill in some details tomorrow

Look again ........

MCB not MGB ......

MCB = Misty Creek Boats .... www.youtube.com/user/mistycree...ts?feature=mhee

That's me


Cheers

Randy

The ModelGasBoats.com came with my kit ......

maybe my other boat is better --- same decal just bigger

And thats why i believe most should use bushings that support the weld. If you think about it... how do most people put negative or positive in the strut? They typically grab the strut and angle it.. which puts the bend in stuffing tube pretty close to the strut, instead of physically bending the stuffing tube further up to get the angle wanted @ the strut (this is how i do mine..). On mono's with stingers, when you adjust the trim on the stinger, you are bending the cable near the weld. And with many these days wanting to run big diameter props, they are just putting even more stress on it without supporting it.



Randy...boat looks good. That skull on the side fits nicely.

Randy, that boat looks fantastic!!! Great work!!!


www.modelgasboats.com

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Stormy weather and missing gaskets stopped from running last weekend

I did work on some other parts

added Buck bag (my favorite item now - thanks Scott I'm hooked)

Fuel line and filter

Finished servo box except thottle linkage
few pics

did some Laser work on Rudder ..........