Thanks Woodie!
I really wished i had the bigger prop at the time, would have given it a lot more get up n go!

on the left is the prop i was using, a Prather 235, and the right is the new prop i received yesterday. little bit of a size difference heheh :-P



I have a question regarding the new hull.
I've noticed people say to epoxy coat it inside and out.
What kind of epoxy are you guys using? the only epoxy i really know of is the araldite 2 part epoxy type stuff.
I was thinking of using fiberglass resin as i have a fair bit left over from another project.
What do you guys recommend?

Also with regards to the driveshaft and strut etc... What is the recommended setup for this 48" deep vee?
Could i get away with using the same setup i had on the "turkish shoe"?
i know i have to change the drive cable etc over as the one i was using is smaller than 1/4" and thus the new prop is too large for the shaft.

cheers!

heres some pics of the new vee and where im at with it now.

The boat is really meant for a surface drive with the shaft coming out thru the transom, not thru the bottom of the boat as your current one does. Doug

Update of build progress so far...
Hull finished minus deck and epoxy coating.

I picked up another McCulloch weedy motor from the rubbish tip shop for $5.
This one is only 25cc tho unlike the big Bertha 32.
I am going to run the 25 at first as this one starts and runs like a dream. The 32 is being a pain in the ass and takes forever to get it started and running reliably.

I finished fabricating engine mounts WITH the rubber isolating bushes I picked up from the wrecker for $5. They worked out quite nicely and will fit the 5" rails perfectly.

I have decided to use a dual rudder setup... just cos I can haha.
I made a dual rudder arrangement years ago for a different boat but never got used.
all I need now is a driveshaft ferrule, shaft and drive dog to complete the driveline. I kept the flex shafts from the 2 weedys I butchered so no shortage of flex cable :-D

Here's some piccys so far

Looks good so far. Doug

I agree.

This looks really good, and a lot less sinkable than the last one
No really: Seems to be a good build. Keep it up!

Cheers!

Woodie.

You asked re Epoxy coating the hull. Some fibreglass resins are epoxy, whilst others are polyester or vinylester.
West Systems do a good epoxy. The epoxys are marketed at wooden boat builders/repairers, whereas the polyesters are used in trailer boat small launch building. I've used Epiglass 9000, West Systems for sealing wood hulls.
If you have polyester resin, you can also use that, although I believe that it won't penetrate the wood as well as epoxy does. Heated Araldite also runs thin, but would be a pain even thinned to spread around.
So coat the inside and outside with resin. There have been some posts on here & Jims re how to do this, how to spread evenly, how to thin the epoxy resin.

Sand the outside smooth afterwards. There is also a really thin fibreglass cloth that I've seen used on the outside of a wood hull. With a second coat of resin over it, and sanded smooth you'd never know there was fibreglass coating.
Not suer on the weight of cloth - perhaps someone else could comment.
David

Hey thanks kiwi. The resin I have would be the polyester type fiberglass resin. If that will suffice then great, I'll do at least 2 coats of it if I do and sand it noice n smooth. But wont be doing much on it for a week or so as I'm on me honeymoon hehe

Alrighty, haven't posted much as have been busy working on it.

Progress to date -
Hull sealed inside and out with 3 coats of resin and cloth strips along keel and engine rails.
Tough as nails I reckon
Dual rudders mounted and set up.
Radio box in with servo mounts epoxied in. I found a nice plastic container with a fully sealed lid and very sturdy construction for the radio box. Is a bit small but everything fits.... just.
Driveline all soldered up to my custom made ferrule I made on my "vertical lathe " (drill press and dremel hehe :-P)
I found the problem with the 32cc Mac, Turned out to be the carb flooding it regardless of needle settings. I had a spare Carb from an old chainsaw which once tuned runs fantastically :-D

Getting close now only have the deck to glue on and figure out a way to secure the radio box and fuel tank.
I filled up the front areas and either side of the radio box with expand-a-foam so hopefully in that unlikely event where I flip it , it should float.

Well progress has been slow but getting there.
I have the deck epoxied on, coupla coats of resin, primed and top half of hull painted a stunning 'carnival yellow'

I have a nice trio of mcculloch engines now, picked up another one from the recycler for 5 bux.
I'm going to use this one as a guinea pig for mods like water jacket, porting etc...
i do have a question tho regarding the stock weedy motors, im thinking of taking off the pull start assembly which consists of the huge plastic shroud on the front and using one of the electric starters i have from nitro airboat days. By taking off the plastic shroud, am i reducing the aircooling ability of it? If i run without the shroud, do i run the risk of the engine overheating?
I want to take off the pull starter and shroud as it will allow me mount the engine lower in the hull.
Heres the 3 macs i have now, from left to right, 32cc, 25cc and the guinea pig 21cc.