As Lohring was saying, the fuel system is the curse of an engine that's been sitting "wet". The fuel can develop gum deposits anywhere it sits. When you start a cold engine on the choke, it gets a heavy load of fuel ( rich ) and a lot of times will run OK for a while. But once warmed a little and off the choke, it needs to run a lot leaner and is dependant on a really clean metering system. This is when a dirty/gummed up carb can drop dead on ya. You will need to clean the tank thoroughly, replace the clunk ( pick-up inside the tank ), replace the fuel lines/filter, and do a complete carb rebuild. Most Walbro carbs will start at 1 1/2 ( turned out from closed ) turns on both needles. Most Zama carbs will start at 1 turn out on both. If an engine dies as you apply load ( launching ), it usually needs a little more fuel on the low needle ( closest to the engine ) to transition on to the high needle. Those "in the lid vents" often go bad, and it's difficult to know they are giving trouble. Try running on a little fresh fuel in the tank, with the cap off to see if it helps. Most boaters run without an air cleaner on the carb. It's just one less thing to get in the way while tuning. A new spark plug couldn't hurt either ( NGK, NOT Champion ).

You have a clutch on it, so it probably has a square drive cable system. With that, you don't need any cable gap.

Randy was correct on a WHH setup. I recognize the clutch and throttle cable setup. Looks like a lot of clutch shoe dust all over.

Starting it with old fuel will foul the plug. Try this> Take out the plug. hold it close hole and look for spark. If you get it good. throw the plug out. Take the air box off, let it breath. Turn both jets in gently to seat. pull off the fuel inlet line and pump all the fuel from the system. If you have air blow some down the sp hole while you pull on the recoil about 10 times. If not just pull 10 times with out the plug in. Ok now your close to cleaning out the engine. Put in a new plug hold it wide open and pull. It will prolly smoke a lot then die. But then you know it works! Reset the jets 1 1/2 out for both. adjust from there.

sounds like a plan. Havn't had time to mess with it yet. but that sounds perfect.

Only Have two questions:

what is the SP hole?

do not reset the needles until i have done everything else and already tried starting it and letting it smoke and die? and re install fuel lines?

i am going to drain out the fuel i added and clean the tank with some alcohol

SP spark plug. The needles turned in will do 2 things. make sure it's not getting anymore fuel and clean any build up in the jet holes. after it starts and dies I spray a very small small amount of carb cleaner in the carb. "pop" it off 1 more time. Now you know the motor is cleaned out. set the jets at 1 1/2 is the static setting. or count the turns as you turn them in. and reset to that. Then put feul lines back on and start normaly.

If you put some gas in to start with what was your oil to gas mix?. Some run 6 oz to 10 oz per gallon, high oz for high rev mod motors.

Ron

Right Ron. 10 oz of oil in a flooded engine. The gas will evaporate and leave a lot of oil in the crankcase. That's why it will smoke on start up.

That is all I run, 10 oz per gallon cool power bule. All high mod motors. Have never had any problems. Was just making sure some oil was mixed with gas to start with. Have know a few people that have forgot to and had same problem and they were people that have been doing this for years.

Ron

So i finally got back around to messing with it. I started it up yesterday pretty easyly. But the first problem is that when i push on the Primer Bulb, it does not PRIME unless i cover the whole where the excess fuel comes out. Then it pulls gas. But stops puling gas.

I took it apart, cleaned the carb, got spark. and now it doesnt even want to start.

Am i missing the reed? i saw in the video and might have misplaced it during the rebuild

here are some pics.

Looks like your missing a gasket (#3 or #5)

Plus if your using bottom picture as carb to isolator gasket - that's WRONG gasket - it blocks the small vac hole






Daniel Place posted this on another site and I save it for reference





The X'ed out ones are not used in our WT's.
For the pump section you have two choices if you have this kit. One is just use the blue #5 on the carb with the gasket #2 over it then the cover.
But what you may not realize is you have another better choice. That is laying the black #4 flapper down on the body then put the beige #3 over it to get your fuel pump diaphram then top it with the #2 gasket and then the cover. The #4 and #3 together make up what was one beige originally in the carb.
On the other side with the four screws always put down your #1 gasket then the #6 needle metering diaphragm then the cover.