[img]http://http://www.gizmomotors.com/images/stories/virtuemart/product/resized/Complete_EZ_star_50787047ba412_130x150.jpg[/img]I just found out the hard way how cheap the pawl is on the easy starter. I was hardly torque'in the pawl and I thought it was a slip but it tore the maybe 4 threads out. If they would have tapped it right tothe end it would not have done this. So I machined off about a 1/4 inch and it went right on and didn't strip. I first tightened the flywheel on with a nut then I stripped out the threads. I like the pawl from the REV unlimited it had a hex for a socket to fit it. Question is is it as good as the Zen and will it work in place of the zen pawl. And about ten dollars cheaper. It will solve two issue's one you will be able to use a proper socket on it and two you will be able to torque it to spec. Now just need a spanner and problem solved for having to open the motor just to torque a bolt. www.gizmomotors.com/images/sto...412_130x150.jpg [/u

Guys,
I watched the video and I would like to say that in my opinion there is absolutely no need to apply loctite to the nut. I have built quite a few engines and have never used or needed loctite.

I did get tired of trying to find different ways to tighten and loosen the ez start nuts and made this item below one night. It was the first one and I have considered making more, just did not know if people would want them. I am no master machinist by any token of the word and I widdled this out by on my manual mill just to have a decent tool.

That's cool tool there ... I bet that's something our own Mr. MGB Geezer Machinist could make a bunch of ..... Hey Steve ... make some of Carlo's tools for us

Cool

Later ... Nice idea

Great idea also it would be nice to have one made for the stock one

A tool to torque the flywheel requires something that stops the crankshaft from turning while torque is applied to it. The only way properly apply this torque is to hold the flywheel and not the crank! I made a tool a few years ago to hold the flywheel while torque is applied but I realized the starter put more torque on it than I did.

A tool already exists for the stock flywheel. cC had them. It holds the flywheel while you torque the nut holding it down. Works great and put no stress at all on the crank since there is a woodruff key that locks the flywheel to the crank.

Even without a key, the knurled flywheel used on the collet side of the engine can be tightened. The tool is split into so that it can be clamped & removed after tightening. The same tool type becomes a puller to remove any round piece fastened to the taper on either end after the screw or nut is loosened. Nothing needs to be placed inside the engine!

I have seen absolutely no valid evidence that using a piston stop to add or remove components from the crank shaft will stress your crank or make it run out of true. If anybody here thinks it does, prove it. Lets see the before and after TIR measurements on a crank that has never been taken apart.

www.davesmotors.com/s.nl/c.885...it.A/id.1053/.f

Doug

What you are doing by using a piston stop is basically the same as hydrolocking it. You are putting pressure on the needles forcing them against the rod. Basically making inverted speed bumps in the rod and sometimes even the wristpin. Each time roller comes around it gets smacked back into the cage. After time it will break the cage. This is why piston stops are not recommended.

Todd

Quickdraw

For whatever reason the RCMK cranks have a nasty habit of allowing the nut to spin loose if the flywheels are not fully seated with till you feel it bottom out. The light application of blue is a safety precaution on these cranks for the same reasom. It isn't a ton of red but a light application of blue and it doesn't affect the threads very much and will come off and allow it to be reinstalled many times without any issues. Would much rather know it cannot come off than worry if I can reuse it 10 times. If it ever comes loose the crank, flywheel and EZ start Pawl nut are trashed so it is by far the lesser of two evils.
Never used to use locktite there either on the Zenoahs but RCMKs are different and can loosen well maybe not the way I tighten them now but if you don't get down on it with a steel nut and seat it all the way it will come off.

The Zenoah pawl nuts biggest problem is there is no threads for the first 1/8" that is why I machine those down and then you don't need the spacer behind the pullstart and it bolts on like it always should have.


The tools we used to use to hold the flywheel that bolted in the puller holes in flywheel are blocked by the size of the EZ starter pawl nut.
This necessitates the need for simply shimming the flywheel side of the crank either before you put the jug on or it takes all of 30 seconds to just yank the jug. Shimming with a soft material between the pork chop and the case of the flywheel side will allow you to tighten the flywheel nut till the flywheel is fully seated with zero risk of damaging the crank or anything else.