so i got into the rc boats and have been having fun with my 51" deep vee from exceed and have made adjustments to it to run better and all but i wanted something as a budget build. soooo i bought a hydro hull with everything but a motor.


here it is with my other boat.


so the story begins. well i pulled the engine out of the other boat to see how it will fit and well it dont at all, the mount dont line up the engine to the flex shaft. so i put my other boat back together and go to the lake to run and think about my build. well after a couple of searches and nights of reading i found out the tubing for the flex shaft is wrong so i yank it out.


so the tubing is all plastic no copper tubing, then i realized to put a engine other than a weedwacker style engine in it i would have to remove the stuffing tube due to the wrong angle. so i did......




then i decided i wanted to run a turn fin on the boat and realized there is no support behind it so i cut a notch in the right sponson so i can add a piece of wood and glass it back. after than i just didnt like the boats paint/sticker design so i sanded the clear off and peeled all the stickers off. im gonna paint it white with textured carbon graphics and accents.


while doing this i called carlos at cc racing as i only live 45mins away from his shop to talk to him and he told me to come in and lets figure it all out. so i got online looked for the best engine for bang to buck ratio and the rcmk s254 evo from gizmo motors with their mount kit was the best deal. i got it ordered it up and 4 to 5 days later it shows up. un box it, and put it together.


then i get home to set it in the boat to see how it fits and to my amazement the boat is drilled already for the mounting hardware so i hand tighten everything up and look it over. plenty of room and hatch cover fits very nice.





next tuesday is my birthday (yay 27) and i have a half day at work so im taking a ride to cc racing to buy supplies and get some help on setting up the butch block and stuffing tube.

the hull is 49 inches long

My observation is such that most of the 'Play' sport hydros mount there engine too far rearward because engines typically fitted are low HP and hull needs to fly slightly to run free and fast under the limited HP available.

Bump up the HP with a more state of the art engine while at the same time likely getting a 50%+ increase in speed makes the hull a KITE !! with an engine that far back.

Because we who race FAST r/c boats can only relate to whats more common place is said hulls, stating what i have must be taken as intent of the best intentions and not a diss on what you have

** Case being ENGINE should be equal to or slightly ahead of bulkhead that is sponsons trailing edge.
** If you can Re-mount engine further forward so hulls C/G moves forward as well.

Shared here is some photos of what I have built/run in recent years and POINT being observing engine location relative too sponsons trailing edge and C/G location typical to be 2-4" behind that point.

so scott what your telling me is that my engine is to far back and this boat will run to loose on the water. its hard to get the engine any more forward. does the gas tank play as part of the cg cause the front is the plastic tank.

She does look kinda rearward.your engine , You'll have to move the fuel rack.
looking good on the rebuild. CoG should be @ the turn fin.Try to get the cable coupler @ CoG Move your FULL fuel tank's to help with CoG I have some Testor's paint jars I use as weight for fuel. After all that then you can think of tail weight,when done. I've seen a hull like you have with some lead weights on the left rear sponson.To help getting the sponson back down on the water. 1 1/2 OZ or so. All in the setup.
It's OK to go look at some other hulls like yours and see their setup. Many in old posts.Here and RCU IW and so on.

* Reread post above ... reworded it slightly
Your not stuck using the supplied tank, if engine can be moved forward some and cowl fitment still allows it ? ... would personally see if that can be worked out.

Or .... Do as you are, run the boat and then adjust if the boat is indeed a kite ?
It's modeling and nothing is ever etched in stone !

Just have FUN and learn the ropes along the way !!

oh okay then im gonna leave it alone. i work at a dealership so we have alot of throw away stick on weights in 1oz pieces, so i can put a velcro bag infront of the tank and add weight till desired effect.


okay explain one thing, do i need a liner in the 5/16's tubing and what pro should i prob start out with. also any recomendations on a pipe i would like steel if possible.

No liner, just a good grease for your cable.Keep you shaft well greased.
I like saying that.
GREASE WHEEL BEARING Johnson - Evinrude - OMC 0775779 triple guard
any Evinrude dealer/repair will carry that.
My one buddy has the same hull I'll ask him for a inside pic.
After the weekend.

i use this grease from perma-tex, i use it mostly on brake caliper parts (slides, shims, and any other contact areas). the grease is extremely tacky and holds up to high heat/friction. its green in color.

and yes please show me some pictures of your buddies boat. i just ordered all the driveline and hardware, plus an exhaust. i show see them in a week and finally get the ball rolling again.

so today i made the support for the turnfin since the boat never had one i had to cut it open so i cold glue one in and then refiberglass back.

I was wondering why no turn fin was used on this hydro cost savings? I have the proboat formula very simular to your exceed boat although mine did have a useless turnfin I did change it to a insane turnfin, nice work so far.