After 1 1/2 years of the hull sitting in the box, got off my arse and built it over the past few weeks.
Implemented some neat tricks like carbon rod reinforced ride surfaces & cowl.
Used one of my own mod 260's, Powermaster 1" 105* header & pipe, Hypertorque mounts and Speedmaster hardware.
Bladder bag under engine, Long AM radio box with digital 1/4 scale on steering & Futaba 3PK radio controlling it all.
Graphics are simple rattle can paint & decals .... this will be a race boat, not a show boat

* Tried to keep C/G forward as possible. Because engine was placed full forward carb needles hit cowling so a small cowl area needed to be cut away for clearance ( need to still make a small bubble to cover hole ) With the long radio box keeping gear fairly forward, aluminum pipe, bladder tank under engine, the static (No Fuel C/G) came in right at 32%. A full 250cc tank moves it too @ 33 1/2%.

Should be a great boat, most seem to love theirs !!

PS.
Last 2 pictures deal hand "N" hand with the carbon fiber rods glued into sponson bottoms. Once carbon is set in place and glued in securely, the ride surfaces No Longer flex and will remain so over time !!
Ride surfaces are then sanded FLAT using a LONG sanding block made from a 2" X 2" square X 28" long aluminum box.
320 wet/dry was then glued to one surface down the entire length ( used 3M spray contact adhesive )
Using water and a LOT of elbow effort the ride pads were evened up and flattened. ( Do watch out you don't sand threw the bottom, gel coat go's away first & thats OK.

Regards,
Scott
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Hey Scott,

I just started building mine...received it a couple months ago. After reading your post I just had to inspect the bottom, and I wonder now if Aeromarine have changed their layup of this hull? I can honestly say that mine has zero flex in the ride surface area and I also checked the bottom on a flat table and it lays really flat, with all steps touching evenly with the exception of the middle step on the starboard side which is about 1/32 off the table. I have honestly seen much worse in many production cats out there. I can see there are several layers of cloth over the steps on the inside...it's laid up pretty thick in those areas. Edges are nice and sharp. I don't think I will touch it at all. I also noticed the hull/deck seam not only has the usual bonding material (which I believe to be 3M 5200) but it is also fully taped! My opinion on this hull that I have here is that it is at least as good as anything I've seen so far. Only defect I noted was a small area of the gelcoat on the bottom tunnel where it was repaired by Aeromarine. Had to shine a light in the hull to find it. (this is a typical inspection I do on new hulls to judge quality of layup).

How does this sound compared to the one you have there? Mine is serial number 10012 if that gives any indication.

From the pictures it looks like you used an extended rudder.. Can you tell me how far back the prop and rudder are from the transom? Did you mount the strut offset like the instructions suggest, or did you shim it?

Last but not least, have you run the boat yet and what are your thoughts?

Appreciate your feedback.

Marc,

I never received instructions with mine , so just winged it working along the set up parameters that I had used with the Jessie James it is replacing.
Strut was mounted center of tunnel. My JJ cat had used a slightly shorter strut placing prop a little closer to transom. With this strut I tried to maintain the same rudder position I had used in the JJ, tho now @ 3/4 inch further back.

Maiden voyage is this Sunday .... Will let you know more as soon as I know more

** As for the ride surface flatness and stiffness, this build is just like yours. Putty paste between shoebox seams, tape on inside.
Reason for the carbon rod in sponson bottoms was more proactive that problem correcting. Just seen fiberglass hulls change shape with age and temperature extremes, so figured the sharing of using C/F rods reinforcement was generally a good idea for FYI value.

If strut requires offset? ... a slight twist should do the same thing

Thanks Scott.

Mine came with an Avenger setup sheet with some mods done to it by hand. Basically the engine placement is changed to be more forward (14 inches to center of carb as opposed to 12.5), the tank setup modified for the V bottom tank they now supply with the hardware kit and the strut is marked to be offset 3/16 to the right of centerline.

Look forward to hearing your feedback on performance.

Measured where engine is now ... 13 5/8 to center of carb bore from transom. but engine is on a fairly steep angle.

I mounted engine as FAR FORWARD as possible, actually had to cut cowl for carb needle clearance because of this.

Had radio box been shorter, engine angle could have be a tad less allowing it to mount up a tad lower and further forward.

O'well

Maiden voyage today, a tweak here, adjustment there and boat was just FLYING !!
Blew off 4 times at 65 mph ++ ..... a C/G of 31/32% is not enough !
Even with prop changes, strut adjustments and minor set up tweaks boat would just be running flat and fast then KITE!

But outside of the free Air Show antics, boats at sub ballistic speeds turned on rails, does nothing stupid at all while being a dream to drive.

The C/G needs to be bumped to 34% or more, Unless air packing under hull can lift transom area and NOT the bow, this boat is going to continue to fly.

Gawd this is fun .... not

Yeah, I have heard from guys that run these alot that you should get the engine as far forward as it will go...that it limited somewhat because of the mounts (especially with Hypertorque mounts, which I use). You have to be able to get to them with a wrench! I am installing a 1000ml bag forward of the bulkhead. This is what I did on my buddy's Avenger and we use it for weight as required depending on conditions. I am also trying a slightly different approach with the hardware...going with sub tunnel strut mounting. Have it mounted already...I am using AM supplied hardware. Will post all build pictures when I am done and once I have tested. (if it works lol). You can get this boat to run very solid Scott, and I am sure you will...my friend's Avenger isn't the fastest boat out there, but to date, we have not blown it over in a race. Knock on wood!

Hey I just noticed your pipe mount...looks pretty nifty! Did you make that?

Thanks,

Yea it is all fabricated. Basically a small piece of 1/8 inch wall 90 degree angle aluminum attached to strut blade anchor screw, a stub of heavy wall aluminum tubing topped with an aluminum arm and pipe saddle, all tightened together with a single 10-32 screw down threw it.

Beauty of this is it can be swung left to right finding the natural center of pipe not binding the coupler o-rings. Strut can be adjusted without effecting pipe support position. Very K.I.S.S