Hi all,!!! Firts of all I am new to the forum. So let me introduce my self so I dont get yell at for the project I am starting. I had some experience with FE boats building and upgrading them I already passed the 55mph threshold with one of my boats.I have switch to gas because I have recently moved to Spain where the neares lake is an hour away, and driving this much for 4 minutes of run time in the water with 3 batterie sets its just not fun anymore. So I switched to Gas in hope for some more relaxing time away from my problems and the W... hahaha shhhh!... I am majoring in automotive tech so petrol engines are not new to me and I understand the basics most of the boats dynamicsc (I have build and upgraded FE boats). The only thing I am really new to is putting this two together. Although the basics I understand I will ask for to those willing to give it for my first gas build. Although I prefer goning pretty slow to make a good build, I planned ahead and start off big, (I know this is not recomended but I have some building experience, pretty handy, good workshop at home, and basic knowledge). Plus I know I will get bored if I start with a small average speed boat. As I said I already crossed the 55mph threshold and I not looking to compromise on that. Maybe a little bit les but not going back to the 35mph.

So enough about my self the build.

Its a DEEP V mono hull from prestwich rc boats in the UK. I LIVE IN EUROPE, with good water line clearence. I want something that can handle rough waters on ocations.
This are the parts already bought and on their way. Please let me know if I am missing something and building tips on how to properly get this started. Basically looking for a good realiable sport boat (not competition level) but fast when I want it to, to take off the edge. when I gent the parts and get on building I will post pictures of progress for recomendations and opinions on how to keep proceding.
ZEN524 bellcrank throttle link Pict Pict Pict Pict Pict Pict Pict Pict Pict Pict Pict Pict
11.75 11.75
ZEN525 throttle pushrod kit 3.95 3.95
ZEN540 coil relocator 6.51 6.51
CS31 WTC header and SS pipe 77.00 154.00
CS66 exhaust bracket 15.50 31,00
HF108 4 piece trim tabs 17.95 17.95
HF84 Hexflex M8 to 1/4 flexi 12.95 12.95
HF164 rudder link 5.95 5.95
HF139 2 large turn fins 12.50 12.50
HF102 T Bar 22,95 22.95
HF120 twin rudder and strut 39.95 39.95
HF161 brass tube and teflon for 1/4 in 25in flexi in 8.00 8.00
HF147 quarter drive dog Pict Pict Pict Pict Pict


2.50 2.50
HF39 25 inch quarter flexi inner 13.50 13.50
GA10 water outlet aluminium 2.50 5.00
GA36 clamp servo mount std servos 6.50 13.00
GA44 hatch clips 2 pcs quarter turn type 8.95 8.95
GA61 tube aerial Pict Pict


2.40 2.40
GA102 watercooling silicone tube 4mm 2 metres 3.95 3.95
GA97 Tygon fuel tube 950mm Pict Pict Pict Pict Pict


5.45 5.45
RBX21 NEW Radio box double seals 17.95 17.95
RB23 clamp servo mount std servos 6.50 6.50
RG20 S5 servo 28.95 28.95
RG25 MG995 servo 12.95 12.95
GA16 Y splitter CNC aluminium brass nipples Pict


3.95 11,85
GA12 fine fuel filter Pict Pict Pict
3.55 7.1
EE8A manual fuel pump 11.99 11.99
VAMPIRE BOAT ONLY 355.00 355.00
EE7 Electric Starter 1 23.95 23.95
GA63 Starter Belt 1 5.95 5.95
E2 epoxy building kit 1 27 27,00
shipping 34.00
All prices are in GBP British pounds TOTAL 925.31


The engine I am getting from Gizmo. With the folowing componets are. I am having one of the cyl rotated.

Quantity Name SKU Price Subtotal
1 RCMK K-600 57 cc In-Line (SELECT:
pull-starter: yes) K-600S (RE069-11) USD695.00 USD695.00
1 RCMK clutch (Rotation: STD Rotation) RB0CD-05 USD84.55 USD84.55
1 Collet for RCMK or Quickdraw Engines GMM 141 USD15.95 USD15.95
2 All In One No leak manifold for 7/8" headers. GMM 238 USD27.00 USD54.00
1 RCMK Engine Mount. RB0C9-1B USD58.00 USD58.00


and I am getting also from bonzi sports the following.

1 x BONZI' Waterproof Fail Safe (BZ6007) = $31.96
1 x BONZI' Water Resistant Kill Switch (BZ6027-1) = $19.95
1 x Walbro 2 In 2 Out Water Pump (BZ7509-22) = $44.95

Please let me know if I am missing something, things to keep in mind, and how and where should be a good starting point for this build. I am also missing and good prop selection for starting point diamter and pitch. Recomendations accepted and ALL HELP APRECIATED IN ADVANCE!!!

did u order all this already ?

Yes everything is on its way... WHY

What hull does Dave (PMB) have that is big enough for a twin ??

WHich hull are you talking about the Sigma? Lynx?

??

Just at a glance the 520 will eat some of that stuff up that rudder set up is very flimsy (yes I have seen and fixed them) and is poor design for any power some other things

why rotate head that's not always good.. ??

Did you actually talk with Dave Marles when your ordered all this or did you pick the parts ??

Just at a glance the 520 will eat some of that stuff up that rudder set up is very flimsy (yes I have seen and fixed them) and is poor design for any power some other things

why rotate head that's not always good.. ??

Did you actually talk with Dave Marles when your ordered all this or did you pick the parts ??

Yes I talked to him the only thing, at first as I told you I was going for an inline zenoah, then I change it for the rcmk (Daves does not know this last part), I know its double the power but shorter in size. is just about 6cm longer than a stock 260 zenoah. Not tha much when you think about it.
..... If you speak about rotation of cylinder, thats becuase of space thats the only way to fit two tune pipes in that hull. One per side.

I just like the twin ruder system, I think it looks cool . Thats how I have set up all my FE boats. (obviusly not even the same hp or torque. Why do you say its weak.??? Just want to know your take on it.
If is the steering linkage I could try parallel steering servos. The strut does not rotate with the rudders so the flexi will always be in a fixed position and does not have bearings problems like a stinger drive, the flexi just spins freely the propeller. If is to much of pain later I could modified it, removing the strut, replacing with a aluminum plate to keep the twins, and put a stinger in, one of those germans which could keep up with the torque. But I still prefer to do with our all the bearings and bushings from a stinger drive.....
But please by all means why do you say It is weak so I can fixed or change it..?... Remember my project is a fast sport boat, I am not looking to race or anything.


Also what other stuff do I need to be aware of???? Thanks again for the input verry much aprecciated!