This all revolves around your ability to actually get a hold of the 1" header parts to do this, but if you can ? ... here is a nifty way to utilize the freer flowing attributes of the 1" header & manifold

Parts required:
SS 25-27mm pipe clamp ( Carmen at NFS has these )
2 roller chain side plates ( taken apart link of #41 chain )
10-15% Silver solder & Flux ( Or Brazing rod & flux )
* 1" header and flange parts.

Rough up the SS clamp on two points 180* apart, Flux and tin the clamp with silver solder leaving a nice mound of solder.
Rough up one side and end of the 2 roller chain side links, Bend then at @ 30* angle. Dab them in the flux and then heat up the clamp at solder area and place the chain link on top of the solder, reheat until the two pieces fuse together.
Repeat on other side

Now you have a clamp that will slip onto a 1" header that provides the spring attachment tabs required. Place clamp at position that gives the best spring tension.

Adjust length of header and square up the cut for a semi leak proof fit.

So K.I.S.S.

This showing the AREA difference between the OEM head pipe inlet and that of a 1" header

I like that! Can't wait to see what kind of performance gains you get from the 1" header on that pipe.

Did you ever tested this pipe Scott?

Yea, while testing was more a proof of concept, engines ran really well.
Down side just like all the 1" header pipe systems, tuned length becomes pretty critical so fine tuning the set up length is paramount !!