Another clue to the wrist pin's movement can be easily felt when two "C" clips are used that have removal notches. Set up the wrist pin with a minimal amount of clearance, run the engine for a short period of time. Remove both "C" clips & then try to remove the wrist pin. You will notice that a small burr has been raised on the outside of the "C" clip's groove & the wrist pin must be forced out. This can happen even when the end play has been reduced to a minimum. This is why in many of the engines I build, the wrist pin is pressed into the piston.

Jim Allen

I'm sorry that some low-life took your boat, and I hope you can get it back.

The sad reality of the C clips is production tolerances in these utility engines. If we all made our own engines, we could keep close clearances on ALL the components, and the fit of a 5 cent spring clip may be fine. But when we combine all the "good enough" factory fits of pistons, pins, clips, clip grooves, and the normal wear of those grooves, we can't be assured that there will NOT be room for the pin to move. Install the end gap at 6 or 12 o'clock, without over stressing the clip, and the gap will move around. Every good engine assembler uses stock components and "trusts" that it will be fine.

Trust me ,you will.
I was thinking of selling one of my hulls, maybe we can help you get back on your feet so to speak.
What did you have for a boat?

I'm very sorry to hear about the stolen boat, but the world is full of jerks. Alert your local hobby shops & it may turn up.

JA

I hope the "jerks" cut their fingers off on the prop...Sad to hear of your loss.....
In my books, if someone has the decency to ask for something, rather than flog it, they usually get a super deal or given it !!!

Cheers Scoot.

Hi Bob, I was running a Y6 G2 Mono w a gizmo top end and hanging with the big boys here in District 19