Maybe this has been discussed maybe not. Shell manufactures a premium 2-stroke motor oil that is environmentally friendlier than any other 2-stroke oils on the market. This oil is designed for use on the water and I must say that if this oil works as good or better than the other oils available then I'm going to use it.

I enjoy the use of the lakes, ponds and rivers that others enjoy and if I can leave less of an impact then I'll do what I can.

I'm not an environmentalist and I'm not saying you should switch your oil. I'm just putting it out there so you know there is a product for marine use:)

I'm going to run with this oil all summer and see how it goes.

www.shell.com/static/can-en/do...icants/1-09.pdf

Good for you, but I wouldn't touch it.
Those oils are NOT designed for small 2 stroke motors like we use in our hobbies. There are plenty of decent 2 stroke oils on the market that I would say are just as environmentalt friendly, but offer so much better lubrication and as most would say add insurance for our engines (they can be quite expensive).
Some are:
Saber Oil, Honda HP2, Castrol A747 (not as clean burning as the others) Klotz Red (R50) Thses are just a few of the better ones.
Hope this helps.

Now this is going to get interesting=) What it comes down to is operational temperatures of 2-stroke engines on land vs. marine cooled engines. This would explain why we mix 8oz to 1gal of gas. Land use you want to use the appropriate oil for air cooled and the appropriate oil for liquid cooled. In marine use the water is an uncontrolled temperature (no thermostat for our boat engines) and therefore has a cooler operational temperature requiring the appropriate oil for marine/outboard use. This is where the viscosity index comes into play as well as the TC-W3 certification.

Viscosity Index: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Viscosity_index

Amsoil Saber Synthetic Outboard (water cooled) oil has a viscosity index of 141 and the professional Synthetic (air cooled) has a viscosity index of 136. Neiter of which have a TC-W3 certification (Two Cycle Watercooled).
www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/ato.aspx Amsoil Synthetic Outboard
www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/atp.aspx Amsoil Professional Synthetic

Honda HP2 offers very little info and from their product and is primarily used for the dirtbike line, water cooled land use, higher operational temperatures. Honda doesn't make oil, Mobile apparently makes most of Honda's lubricants. I can't find any HP2 test or spec data. Not for marine use 2-stroke engines.
www.honda.ca/MCPE/Motorcycle/A...lsAndLubricants

Castrol A747 is a high performance 2-stroke oil for road racing machines. It has a viscosity index of 123 which to me is good for high operational temperatures. I would not recommend this product for use on marine water cooled engines.
www.rgracing.co.uk/TDS/A%20747.pdf

Klotz Red R50 data sheet really shows the importance of mix regarding engine usage. The only one that specifies use for RC engines but for what area of useage? Given the mix air cooled use I think.
www.klotzlube.com/techsheet.asp?ID=48

Here's a list of all TC-W3 certified oil www.nmma.org/certification/pro....asp?y=TCW32008
Personally I would opt to use a marine based lubricant over a land based lubricant especialy one with test results that exceed manufactures spec by Mercury Marine and others.

All in all, is it a synthetic oil? Can you mix it 8oz to 1gal? Does it do the job?

Castrol A747 is designed for high revving cart engines in wet conditions. I've been using it for years & won't use anything else. I pulled an engine apart that was running on it & it was clean as a whistle. My engine builder recomends it, so I'll use it.

I started out with Quick Silver,,not just for break in purposes. I found using this product leaves much carbon build up on the piston. And no I don't run my engines fat, I'm on the edge of too lean. Once I switched to Honda HP2,I never looked back. Piston stays clean, so clean you can see the ports impressions on the piston. It may take a little longer for the break in period,But that's cool when running the boat and through out the day you hear the engine coming each time out on the water. I have to say I also get my oil by the case, I pay $6.47 a bottle $78.00 for the case.

I think I can understand the usage of the lower viscosity index oils now. With the cooler engine temps the oil won't build up as much and flow through the engine easier than a higher viscosity based oil. Less residue for sure. A higher viscosity for engine break in is certainly a benefit for that period.

Lower viscosity results in a cleaner burn with less restriction due to less residue or excess oil resulting in higher obtained rpm's and or increased torque curve.

Higher viscosity results in more oil residue resulting in some restiction yet perfect for that break in period.

I'm a hardcore fan of the Honda HP2...have been for many years now. I will never again try to break in an engine with it though...had 2 incidents where they wouldn't break in properly and had blowback through ring. Quicksilver for break-in now. I actually ran Quicksilver all season last year, but it does leave carbon on the piston though...I hate that! lol HP2 does not do that. I just got some Cool Power Blue...apparently it's even better...will be testing it this summer.

I have been seeing Cool Power Blue being talked about..Will like to know how you like it when your race season starts up.