Havent had any luck with the pipe so far.It surges.Wont throttle back up if you mill.I can put my band pipe back on runs great!Now im thinking i may have the pipe too long.It heats up also im using the middle size stinger.So next time out goin with the large stinger and shorten it way up.What it does it runs good for a lap then falls off the pipe.

Bruce,

If it gets off the beach well, then runs a lap with out issue ..... then fall's off the pipe ? You have other issues going on.

Possible causes:

Engine or Pipe temperature issues ?
(Lack of, or excess cooling)

Pipe set too short
(Once heated up, power falls off)

** If above are not issues ? ... try running a slightly smaller prop and see if it behaves the same ?

Well i know what was the deal cant keep orings in the flange.I see they changed the flange to a new style.I lost water flow cost me a piston and cylinder.I got some teflon orings to try.Never had this problem before on any other flange.Be nice if Ace would send a new style flange.

I agree...same happened to me... > I have Emailed Gregg to try and find out if the new ones will come with the new flange like CC
Racing is selling...that one looks bullet proof. As for the Teflons, do not rely on the bolts to squeeze them in, they are too hard. You have to assemble the flange once, off the engine, and compress the flange together in a vise one side at a time to seat the Orings. Then take it apart and reassemble on the motor.

Gregg told me he had handed his pipe busyness to CC Racing.

I have read a few posts now concerning trouble with the powermaster pipe. I wanted to buy one but as of now I am not going to until some reassuring testimonials about new designs and reliability have been presented.

Would be nice if CC (Carlo?) and other with good info made a post here to explain the situation.

Edited: Really to bad if the flange is no good, because it is the best looking flange on the market. Would be good if it could be fixed up without changing the outside.

Patrik

It can be fixed. Here is a copy of a post from Carlo at CC Racing.

"Guys,
I will try to explain thru pictures what needs to be done to fix the problem.

**Note**
If you have the some of the first pipes and it has the three piece manifold you will need to measure with the shim in place.

Part One:
In the first picture you have the part of the exhaust manifold that bolts to the engine. The ring that sticks up off of the manifold that holds the o-ring in place is too tall and must be made to only be .080 tall. It was made too tall from the manufacturer and will hit the flange on the header once compressed between the two manifold parts and will cause a leak. The second picture shows the manifold after being machined, it will only need to be deburred and it is finished.

Bolt your two halves together with some new o-rings and see if there is a nice amount of friction when you try to swivel the header around in the manifold. If it seems hard to move then blow thru one of the water fittings and hold your finger over the other fitting and it should hold pressure, if it does then you can skip part two. If not and it is leaking air when you blow thru the fitting follow the directions for part two and you should cure any problems with your manifold.

Part Two:
The third picture shows the outer ring that bolts the header to the exhaust flange on a belt sander in a diagonal position. I work it this way first and then I switch to a horizontal position like shown in picture four. Make sure that you do not apply too much pressure as it will make the flange crooked. You only need to take about .015 off of this part to make the two parts put a nice clamping force on the o-rings to seal against the header.

I have noticed that the outer ring needs to be radiused so that it does not grab the o-ring and stop it from sealing. It was really noticeable after we have belt sanded the outer ring, it is really leaving a sharp edge and wanting to grab the oring and not letting it seal. you can use a deburring tool around the inner hole to make a radius so that the o-ring will go right in, like in picture 5.

Make sure that when you are finished and ready to assemble you use some grease on the o-rings so that the go right in without being pinched.

If you do not have the capability to do this to your parts send them back to me and I will fix your parts at no charge. Again very sorry for the trouble."

Tried the teflon lasted two runs then started leaking water.It will never hold a oring on the original flange the mounting bolts leave a void and there goes the oring tried viton,teflon and the ones it came with nothing will hold up unless you run it without water to the flange.I tried and lost time and money.

I run the Teflons, but no water! I don't water cool the flange at all with the Teflons.

Good news Carlo From CC Racing got me a new flange coming!I owe shipping cost.

I totally understand your frustration. I had to park my best motor after severely overheating it...due to the flange problems. I had to swap engines at a race and figure out the problem during the racing. Wasn't fun, but in the end I got it worked out. The pipe does make good power though, honestly. I couldn't give up on it because I am doing a review on it. I will have to recommend that anyone that has the old flanges, either try Carlo's fix and make sure it is sealing correctly, or go ahead and get the new flange.

* I would at least put it up for sale and try to get a few bucks for it. There are guys out there that like it. Pipes are a preference type thing in the end. I know I still really love my plain old 2" band Midwest style pipes! I also run a few of the Blois pipes that I also like a lot. The aluminum ones are hard to beat though as far as Oring life and no oil leaks.