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Hello, does anyone have any info on off setting a stinger/strut on a petrol powered mono hull ? (Aeromarine)

That looks like a Hurricane mono to me (with the Texas cowl). I had one just like it, just sold it this past summer. I know Aeromarine was doing the layup for them some time back, but as far as I know it's never been sold as an Aeromarine hull.

Anyway, I've setup and raced a few of those and never needed to offset the drive. The last one I did, I setup exactly the same as my Rampage mono and it won several races. Ran great. There is a writeup on this site on the Hurricane (pretty old article) and on the Rampage. Set it up like the Rampage and you will be in business. Not quite as stable overall as the Rampage, but still quite competitive nonetheless.

That may explain why I couldn't find one looking like it on Aeromarines site, it does have an aeromarine tag on the inside of the hull.
I've been on Herzogs site and the hardware is the same make recommended and set out how Herzog recommends (I brought the hull with all the hardware fitted)

I may have made a mistake by fitting two water pickups on the right trim tab which has made the boat impossible to keep straight above 1/4 revs.

I have more questions rather than answers.

Is there any chance the single pickup built into the rudder
is sufficient for cooling? If so, then the extra pickups might
be redundant.

It's a little unusual for any gas boat to have or need three
pickups. Is there some screamin' full mod big block in this
boat?

Could the extra pickup(s) be moved to the other side of the boat?
Might balance against the drag created by the rudder???

Have you tried running without the turn fins? Some are adamant
about never putting turn fins on unless it is necessary. Turn
fins make *some* boats handle better but not *all* boats.

Nice lookin' Aero. Let us know how it works out.

Hi, the hull had 3 water outlets fitted when I brought her so I thought I would run one for the engine (RCMK K30) another for the exhaust manifold and the other for the sliding joint on the exhaust pipe, just seemed like a good idea at the time.
All the hardwear is were it was fitted when I brought the hull, at the moment all of the trim tabs have been removed and I'm thinking about fitting flush type water pickups under the hull.

Thanks

If you're going to make changes, only do one change at a time. If you do more, you won't know what change helped or hindered your boat.

Before you make a bunch of changes, go to a local pond and see what other guys are doing, and don't be afraid to ask questions

Ditch the pickups in the trim tab, that's bad news. The rest looks ok from what I can see. Use the pickup from the rudder only. Go to low side in engine cooling cap, then out opposite high side, then to pipe and out. That's all you need. Plug off extra fittings. Keep an eye on engine temps when you run it the first few times but it should be fine. I've never really needed more than one pickup for my boats. I have used double pickup rudders before but they weren't required.

I would also recommend getting a large teardrop turn fin from CC Racing for the right hand side...really helps the boats cornering. Set the CG of the boat at about 14.5" to 14.75" with no gas. Set all tabs neutral to start except for the inner right tab, bring that one down about 1/16". Make sure the tabs are mounted at 1/16" from bottom of hull or as close to that as possible. Drive centerline should be about 1/2" from bottom of keel (with room to move up slightly if required. Set the angle to neutral and leave it there unless you really need to tighten up the boat in which case giving it a bit of negative (prop end down) can help, but try to avoid this. Only move it straight up if required. I recommend a Propworks West 6717/3 prop.. Something in the 420-425 range will run great with a good mod 260 or similar. Go from there, it will be VERY close! Tweak as necessary.


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Marc wrote:

>Use the pickup from the rudder only. Go to low side in engine
>cooling cap, then out opposite high side, then to pipe and out.
>That's all you need.

Marc, with all due respect, that routing plan neglected to cool the
exhaust manifold and prewarm the coolant for delivery to the cooling
cap.

Unless davidpaul lives in a very warm climate, I would be cautious
about delivering lake water (potentially cold) straight to the cooling
cap.

A common twin pickup routing plan is:

1st PICKUP => EXHAUST MANIFOLD => COOLING CAP => OUT

2nd PICKUP => TUNED PIPE/HEADER JOINT => OUT

Note: Single pickup setups can flow from the cooling cap to the tuned
pipe/header joint if the flow rate is sufficient.

This way the cooling cap is provided warmed water which might be
kinder to the cylinder/piston. There are tons of variations based
on all the usual variables - it's another one of those situations
where there is no right answer - just do what works and avoid the
"don'ts" which most builders agree on.

- don't feed really cold water into a cooling cap
- don't supply a cooling cap from a high side hose barb (if it has one)

It seems that the issue is getting to be about cooling water. Too hot or too cold / too little or too much.
In my opinion the solution is straight simple: Just get as much cold water through the intakes as possible. If it seems to be too much, just lower the amount of water with some adjustable clamps on the internal cooling tubes. (Should'nt be harder than that).
About controlling the temperature: Maybe someone have heard of a way to read the engine temperature while the engine runs at max rpm in a boat on the water?
Did not think so.
But I am ready to stand corrected, as I do not claim to be the wisest professor in this fine forum.
(You can allways get wiser).

Cheers!

Woody

BTW: I know nuthin' about propwalk. My boat will run with two counter rotating props.
Sorry.

IF YOU EVER GET IT FINISHED!!!!!