My Warpath

I wanted a scoop or cowl --- before Marc made then so I took a scoop turned it around and glassed it in

added air slots to corners to try to drive some air towards carb

Yes I need floatation

help on by rare earth magnet so drops into place --- you can lift boat by cowls magnets alone so they should stay in place

same set up for pcs without scoop

Looking great !!!

Yes, the right sponson definitely needs the reinforcement to the turn fin area.. unfortunately we discovered this half way through the season and several boats and kits went out without the new mod...I have tried my best to inform everyone of this. It's an easy mod to do without having to destroy half the sponson! When building the kit, you can reinforce it anyway you feel is adequate, but the 1/4" pin method is holding up very well so far and can be done post-build. The issue really isn't the strength of the sponsons themselves, it's the torque applied to the rear of the right sponson...as the boat turns hard, the bottom of the fin is being pushed away from the tub as the top of the fin is pulling on the inside/top of the sponson towards the tub... this puts a WHOLE LOT of strain on that piece of 1/4" ply. The fin is trying to TWIST that piece of wood and it really only has the 1/16" ply sheeting and the filler material (foam in most cases) to hold on to. The 1/4" pin mod takes this load and carries it over to the other 1/4" ply stringer inside the sponson so the force is exerted on both pieces AND the filler material sandwiched between them. As long as the pins are securely bonded in, you will bend the fin before breaking the sponson...I tried it!

A brace from fin to tub could help I guess, but it would have to be bracing the very top of the fin... this kind of brace is normally used to stabilize/adjust long turn fins that extend behind the sponson...not the case with the Warpath.

I think if you made a doubler that's thick and screwed in with the fin bolts and was threaded for a stiff rod going to the tub that could help I guess, but remember its TWIST we are trying to eliminate, not side to side movement in this case... in short though, any extra bracing is almost never a bad thing!

and now

Wayyyyyyyyyyyy to much free time and engineer friends + T3's = ........Lol

My fourth scoop

I can't bend wood woth h... so it's made from stripes of balsa with a glass and cloth coating
it's longer and wider the first
it has piece wood inside you just flip for closing acess holes to carb (bolt has nylok and been peened) -- when it's green ...... it's closed . I hate tape

it has steps to prevent water crawling in
a venturi to blow air by - hopefully help to draw air from front - hence diamond cutout in front of scoop

it will be sealed by rubber strip to body

weighs almost nothing

so idea is to draw air thru notches in top of boat - thru front to carb


Ya I know ........... :lol: I was sick - stuck at home and bored .....

Ok, you have to tell me what that brass tubing is there for!!!!

look at side of scoop there is a small scoop in the scoop that feeds that tube

idea -- blow some air thru scoop to help draw air from front and keep water out

Way to much free time ............Lol

ACTUALLY JUST KIDDIN MARC - it's idea was to just to help stop any water from climbing up the rear of scoop :lol: cheers

Marc
My boat has 2 complete sets of hatches - yours and the one's I made with scoop

my set is to play with to try some air theories my friends and I talked about when I was away sick

The scoop (I call #4 Balsa wood/glass) .......... well ..... got carried away but I like to try diff stuff

I'll start with all your stuff first ..... mine is just old school hot rod stuff .... and too many T3's .....Lol

Randy

I hope to start it - with Mod ONB on Sunday ......... if I can

Marc or Scott or if u know

How much of the brass stuffing tube should go into the strut ?

It's a very snug fit right now my other SM stuff is not so tight ....

just wondering if my insert will be short and leave a gap is that okay or do I need longer one?

Using the brass tube type sleeve / bearing try to have stuffing tube go into nose of strut 3/8 - 1/2" and if a loose fit put in with a bit of Loc-tite 640/648.

If you need to adjust strut depth or angle best to pull strut blade and tube as an assembly, tweak tube a tad to reposition strut where ya want it moved. Doing it this way keeps all grease/oil on cable having to pass out threw the sleeve bearing and keeps water from being forced in at struts nose cone aggravating lube wash out.

Canadian Hot Rod RC Boats wrote: Marc or Scott or if u know

How much of the brass stuffing tube should go into the strut ?

It's a very snug fit right now my other SM stuff is not so tight ....

just wondering if my insert will be short and leave a gap is that okay or do I need longer one?

As for sleeve bearings length, it only needs to be long enough to support prop shafts SOLID area. Supporting the cable ahead of weld joint does nothing.

Thanks Scott with the extended strut I wasn't sure about cable support
Randy