Those bags are Baxters, they are very good. Many of the sites list on our front page sell IV bags. I have used the American RC setups for some time now...have had good luck with them.

300ml is good for heat racing, but not really big enough for play boating. I would go with a 1000ml bag if it will fit in your boat. Otherwise, 500ml are readily available also.

500 ml is the size you want you will get arround 15-20 min runtime with the 500 ml ones id say.
Mart

if i get a bag from vet or hospital ,,,how do you clean with just fuel,,,or more solvents needed ???

I rinse them out with water first a few times... then some alcohol like methyl hydrate. Let them day and fuel them up. They will get real soft when you first put gasoline in them, but will harden over a few days.

????? Not happy ,,,got my new iv bag in was so confident i would have a gr8 day on the water ,but this wasent to be ,few questions ,my boat has been duncked but only once and i did all normal procedure clear all water then run a few minutes ,and engine idles great but will bent crank ect make boat cut out like mine is ?,i dont think so but i have to ask.
and could electrics coil ect ,work intermintent as my boat revs easy on stand then today went in the water ran 500m then cuts out same as before ,if not worse ?? any help ,what else should i look for ,i burped bag ect even though i have quick fill and its still drama , every time it went on water ran 1 min then cuts out

When you say a "quick fill" do you mean like the Dubro ones with Orings in them? If so, take it out of the equation. They can suck air. Run a "T" in the line between the bag and the carb...use the T to fill and burp the bag...make sure it's plugged well when you're not using it.

I don't know if a bent crank would cause these symptoms...usually they will just run with less power and vibrate a lot. That's been my experience anyway.

One step at a time, you will get it. Start with the quick filler.

Edit: you will also want to double check that your carburetor and isolator or not coming loose. Do not overtighten. If you want to cover all angles, remove the isolator and check both sides for flatness on a piece of glass...some of them warp and let air in...it will never run right if it's leaking.

I would start too suspect water already in carb circuits from previous dunk in the H2O.
A carb dis-assembly is required to get ALL water blown out. Running does not clear water within the carb.

JMO

Good point.

i have engine out now so will check isolator on glass and change seals ,,am putting another 257 carby on to try and if i remove quick fill and put a tee in how do i block for no leaks ?? ,what to use ,your boat shops sell stuff but not much like that in australia ? what do you use ,i like the dubro quick fill ,i might check for leaks by placing under water and blowing is that sufficent test for leaks

If you really want to keep the quick fill, plug it onto the second line in the gas bag. Use it for filling and burping. Take it off the line going to the carb. Only thing in this line should be a fuel filter. (and the T if you use one).

Dubro make large plugs for fuel/water lines. I maching my own out of aluminum. Doesn't have to be fancy, just something fuel proof to stick in the end of the line to plug it.