Hi folks

I suspect that there may have been some confusion in respect of the simple layout of this system. I have drawn a little diagram of the layout to clarify things as I see it. Included in my diagram is my suggestion of the sloping brass tube. I hope this helps. The horizontal brass tube in the transom (above the water line) plays no part in the operation of the bailer.

I hope this helps.

Regards
Craig

Hey Craig,
IMO these are by far the best bailer system aswell as the simplest, no little balls or valves to get stuck open and sink your boat when not moving.

I will use the Bernoulli water bailer system on my oncoming mono.
For intake of cooling water, I will mount two double water scoops in the bottom of the hull.
So I got this idea: For bailing I will use two single water scoops - turned 180 degrees around to get the vacuum action - also placed in the bottom.
After all it all depends on which way you turn the scoops.
Any second opinions about this?

Cheers!
Woodie.

A single scoop shown at: www.prestwich.ndirect.co.uk/hdwrscoopac18.jpg

Hi Woodie

I see no problems as you will be utilising the same principle as in the original article. In time to come please do let us let us have an update once tested.

One aspect of this system that I am not sure about is the ideal diameter of the tubing to maximise water flow. If too large, the vacuum won't exert sufficient force to suck the column of water out. If too small, the water flow rate might be insufficient to deliver effective bailing.

I guess that experimention will answer that issue.

Regards
Craig

Hi Folks

Having test finished a 48” wooden scale Huntsman boat (that I started building many years ago) I decided to try out the Bernoulli auto bailer (good safe opportunity to try it out). The windows on the top of this boat were left open so when run with other surface drives plenty of spray went through them. When my boat came back home it was surprisingly dry inside so the method definitely seems to work.

And it is nice to know that the system requires zero maintenance and when the boat is stopped on the water there is zero leakage of water back into the hull.

Okay first image shows the boat on the water.



Second image shows the reverse mounted dual pick up viewed from the hull bottom.



Third image shows the inside minus the connecting tubes (prior to finishing with a good clean up of the fibreglass paste used).



Two silicon tubes lead into one looping over for the vertical pick up pipe. That gives sufficient vacuum suction to pull any water up the single vertical brass pick up tube to allow for siphon action to help drain any excess water out of the hull when on the move.

Cheers
Craig

Hi Craig.

Well done. Just as I intend to do with my mono.
Nice to hear that this works good.
I will use two double water inlets. One for the engine (40 cc Blata) and one for cooling flange and exhaust.
In addition to that I will mount two reversed water inlets to work as water outlets (bailers). One on each side of the keel, as the boat is wooden build on a huge keel.
So I'm in for four double in- and outlets all together. And a nest of tubes, as you can guess.

Cheers!
Woodie.

Hi Woodie

The true test for me was trying this out in a relatively very slow boat. As per this youtube clip.(After others on the water subsequently sprayed prop wash into my hull I figured that the system worked quite well):

It worked for me.



Cheers
Craig

I have read several descriptions of Bernoulli vacuum ports, i.e., the portion
which penetrates the bottom of the hull - not the part which suctions water
from the bilge. Which of the common configurations is the easiest to install
and also the most effective has always puzzled me.

To read the article about Bernoulli water bailers, please see:


www.modelgasboats.com/Bernoulli_Water_Bailer/


There are three drawings included with this post:

Drawing A: This is an image I borrowed from Craig D. (many thanks) and I'm
using it as a reference for boat position, direction of travel, water flow,
labels, etc. in the other two drawings. The tubing and water inlet (which I
did not draw) is assumed to be the same in drawing "B" and "C". Drawing "A"
displays a flush mount vacuum port and the attached hose barb and water tube
with a forward angle.

Some Bernoulli installations are using a bottom mounted water pickup which is
mounted in a reversed position. My understanding of this method is displayed
in drawing "B" and "C".

Drawing B: In one instance, the builder described having the pickups hose barb
in a perpendicular position and commented that this required the addition of
a small leading ramp so I added a couple dash marks to represent a small ramp
being added to the forward part of the pickup.

Drawing C: In this instance, a reverse mounted pickup is flush mounted and
there is a slight rearward angle to the pickup's hose barb and vacuum tube.

Bernoulli vacuum ports are not easy to make clear profile pics of once
installed. Based on the searching I have done, the number of verbal
descriptions of different vacuum port installations far outweighs the drawings
and pics available, so I am trying to rely on simple line drawings to gain a
better understanding.

What I am hoping for is some of the experienced Bernoulli installers will
comment about how their method(s) compares with the different drawings. None
of these drawings show a configuration that I am suggesting is better or worse
- they only represent different ways Bernoulli vacuum ports could be
positioned and configured. It is also possible that I have not clearly
understood statements I have read so the drawings may not represent what a
particular builder was referring to.

Since the original article is over 5 years old it is also possible that other
novel ideas for Bernoulli vacuum ports have been designed so I'm hoping to
read about and maybe see some better mousetraps.